• Slot Car Track Wiring Machine Machine Reviews
• Ho Slot Car Track Wiring
• Slot Car Track Wiring Machine Machine Instructions

Jan 01, 2010 track braid (as viewed in the direction the cars go). The negative post of the battery/power supply is wired directly to the left side track braid and the red post at the driver's panel. It is a good idea to have a 10 amp circuit breaker between the battery/power supply and red post at the driver's panel. Below is a nice, standard wiring diagram for a 4-lane layout. High Resolution PDF Track Wiring. Slot Car Track Wiring and Power Sort By: Price: Low to High Price: High to Low Most Popular Title Manufacturer Newest Oldest Availability 36 per page 72 per page 144 per page 216 per page 360 per page Page of 2.

There are two ways I could cover trackwiring - either give a detailed explanation of why a particular size of wire is needed,or just give a simple guide to what to do. No doubt some readers willjust want the simple approach, and others will want the reasons, facts figures,graphs etc. I aim to provide answers for both sort of reader - read on forthe what to do guide - the reasons, facts figures,graphs etc are in the next article in this series.

For those who don’t want tomess around with the reasons why things work here are a few quick guide-lines ontrack wiring that should provide a reasonable amount of power. It assumesa normal club size track, running BSCRA type cars. For lower powered cars theprinciples are identical, but lower thinner wiring will suffice. A lot of clubs now useelectronic power supplies in place of batteries - these rules apply equally wellto both (but I won't keep repeating 'battery or power supply').

1) Use separate feed wires fromthe negative battery terminal for each lane. Although a SHORT length(less than a metre) of VERY THICK wire from the battery to the pointwhere the wires separate is tolerable the general rule is DO NOT USE COMMONRETURN WIRING.

2) Obviously the positive wiringhas to separate fairly near the battery to go to the separate controller sockets. Ideally use separate feed wires fromthe positive battery terminal for each socket. Although a SHORT length(less than a metre) of VERY THICK wire from the battery to the pointwhere the wires separate is tolerable.

3) Keep the wiring from thebattery to the controller sockets as short as possible.

4) Keep the wiring from thecontroller sockets to the track as short as possible.

5) Keep any wiring from thebattery to the track as short as possible.

NOTE For tracks where the driversrostrum is next to the track (like most tracks) 3,4 & 5 can be achieved byputting the battery under the track close to the middle of the rostrum.

6) I would recommend at least 5power feeds for a 30m / 100ft lap length TAPE track. (4 might be adequatefor a very compact layout.) More feeds are needed where the lap length is longer( as a rule of thumb, one feed per extra 6m/20 ft. of lap length).

7) For braided tracks asingle power feed may well be adequate for tracks up to around 30m / 100ft laplength a second feed will be needed where the lap length is longer.

8) Run the first set of extrafeed wires run from from the main power feed to a convenient point about halfway round the lap length. Its important to keep these wires short, so forexample if the feed wires can be 5m shorter if they connect 5m from half wayround, then go for the shorter wire. The extra feeds should be distributedevenly round the lap length.

9) Separate feed wires are neededfor the positive and negative side of each lane.

10) Use 2.5sq.mm cable (ring maincable or similar) for track wiring (including extra power feeds) (but somethingmuch thicker is needed where VERY THICK wire is recommended)

11) Connect up the tape / braidas a continuous loop round the track - a break in the connection increases theresistance considerably.

Making cars run forwards without blowing controllers!

The current BSCRA standard has the cars wired so that when looking down on the car in the direction of travel thepositive braid is on the right. Most imported American ready to runcars, standard home set cars (Scalextric,Fly, Ninco etc.) are also wired to go forward when the positive braid is on theright.

(The original Association standards since they were first published in 1961 was positive on the left. BSCRA will be changed over to the 'plus on the right' standardon 1 Jan 2003. )

At first you might thinkthat the wiring options shown in either of the lefthand parts of Diagram T would make BSCRA 2003 and 'Scalex etc.' cars go forward. Wellif you use a resistance controller either will work. If you try to use atransistorised controller, the wiring with the big green tick will work fine andyour car will go forward. However the wiring on thelower part of Diagram T will blow up your transistorised controller and none ofyour cars will go anywhere (even on a correctly wired track) until yourcontroller is repaired (Probably with a new transistor). On the right handside are the equivalent diagrams to make the cars go backward ( which isonly rarely used).

Why does it make any difference to your controller whichway the track is wired? Looking at the controller socket the standard wiring(Top of Diagram T) has the E terminal (the brake) wired negative and the Lterminal (the power connection) wired positive. Transistorised controllers aredesigned to work this way round. Looking at the lower half of Diagram T, you’llnotice the E terminal (the brake) wired positive and the L terminal (the powerconnection) wired negative.Thisconnects the transistors back to front, so they will not work, and unless youare very lucky they are destroyed (this happens far quicker than you can unplugthe controller, and faster than a fuse can blow.) Unfortunately there is nosimple change that can be made to a controller to get round this problem - theonly simple solutions are to wire the track properly or use a resistancecontroller. (unlike transistors, resistors work exactly the same whichever waythe current is passing through them.)

Using the track in the opposite direction

Do you always want to run the track in onedirection? Running in the opposite direction giveseffectively a different circuit to race on - some layouts work well in eitherdirection. It's sometimes more difficult to drive a track in one direction thanthe other - bends that open up are often easier to drive than ones that tighten(the Oaklands Park circuit is a good example of this) There are potentialproblems with running backward. Cars will deslot in different places inthe reverse direction so themarshalling positions will often be significantly different, and there can be ahigher risk of cars landing in awkward places (like under the bridge). Some ofthe imperfections in trackbuilding upset cars much more in one direction than the other.

If you want to run either type of car withouthaving to rewire each car, or you want the option of running either way roundthe track without swapping over the wires on the car - the track needs to be wired to allow either. Manyclubs now run both types of car, unless you are quite sure the track will onlybe used for one type, I recommend the track is wired top allow both types ofcar. It mightappear easiest just to connect the battery / power supply the other way round -unfortunately this produces incorrect controller connections (as the lower half of DiagramT). The right way to do it is to swap over the connections to the lane on thetrack side of the controller socket as shown in Diagram U. (Cars wired to 2003standard will run in the reverse direction with the switch in the 2002 position.Cars wired to 2002 standard will run in the reverse direction with the switch inthe 2003 position.)

I’ve shown a two pole switch, it willalso work with relay(s) or plug/sockets. These are carrying the full power tothe cars so

(a) The switches, relays, plugs/sockets need tobe of a suitably high current rating (20 amp. for strap cars)

(b) The power wiring must not be extended anymore than absolutely necessary or else there will be voltage drops in thewiring.

This means the switches, relays, plugs/socketswill almost certainly need to be under the track. If you envisage frequentchanges between the wiring polarity, its convenient to use relays and have theswitches at race control. (Switches on the drivers rostrum are an option - thismakes it easier for the sensible drivers - but gives more opportunities to theless sensible for messing about.)

IF the track polarity is reversible, the lapcounters will also need to be suitable for running in both directions - this iscovered in the Lap Counter article.

The 'power on/off' shown in Diagram V wouldusually be a relay contact. This should be mounted between the power supply andthe socket as shown. This removes power from thecontrollerwhen track power is turned off which can be very useful if a faulty controlleris plugged in. (Putting the power on/off on the 'N' lead (the blackwire in Diagram V) would still turn off the track but would leave the powerpermanently connected to the controller)

The power relay should havecontacts rated to carry the maximum current a car will take. 20 amps per lane isadequate for BSCRA cars. A separate contact for each lane is ideal. A separaterelay for each lane is a good idea - it allows individual lanes to be switchedoff which can be useful in holding cars on the start line. These relays areavailable for a few pounds each, and are commonly used in full size cars.

The fuse shown in Diagram V protects the trackwiring and minimises damage to controllers in the event of a faulty (orincorrectly wired) controller or other dead short circuits. Domestic 15ampfusewire (0.5mm) or a 25 amp plug in automotive type fuse is suitable for this fuse - practical experience is that thisdoes not blow in normal use - even with 25g armatures - even with the sort ofshort circuit exhibited by a chassis sparking on the tapes as it goes round (yesI hope that's not normal use)- but it does blow instantly when somebody plugs ina controller with the E and L terminal are shorted through the brakes. Just incase you were wondering - a couple of cm. of 15 amp. fuse wire has negligibleresistance compared with the rest of the track wiring, so it will not slow thecars down. You might be surprised that experience shows therating for fusewire is so different to automotive type fuses, it'sprobably got something to do with how fast they blow on overload but Ihaven't investigated the reasons in depth.

Some American tracks use a 10amp. circuit breaker wired into the brake connection (see Diagram X). Thisprovides similar protection for incorrectly wired controllers, but doesn’tprotect against other short circuits. It's also likely to have a small resistancewhich may slightly reduce the brakes. Incorrectly wired controllers are amore likely problem - particularly as many American tracks depend onseparate croc clips for each wire rather than a 3 pin connector. (With separatestud connections, the careless competitor has the opportunity to wire up hiscontroller wrongly every time he plugs into the track. With a 3 pin connectoronce the plug is wired up right you cannot go wrong.)

The standard wiring for the studson American tracks is

L pin - To Battery Positive -White Stud

E pin - To Battery Negative - RedStud

N pin - Power to car - Black Stud

It would suit slot cars very wellif the voltage arriving at the motor was always the same whenever you put yourthumb hard down. So why isn’t that just what you get on any slot track?

There is a popular misconceptionthat copper wire has no resistance - this is not true - the first thing tounderstand is that copper wiring has resistance and that resistance is enough toreduce the voltage to your car by a very noticeable amount. There is also amisconception that car batteries produce a constant voltage under varying loads- this is not true either - the voltage drops with increasing load. Generally, electronicpower supplies provide a more constant voltage than a battery. Thecombination of these voltage drops is the reason the lights on your full sizecar go dim when you turn over the starter motor.

In fact it doesn’t matter much if the power available isexactly equal all the way round the track (Good job too because there's nopractical way of making it exactly equal all the way round as I’ll explainlater). Certainly adequate power is needed all the way round, but less power is'adequate' in a bend where you cannot put your controller full downthan on a straight where cars are accelerating on full power. As long as thepower available on any particular part of the track is the same every lap, itjust becomes part of learning the track .... Drivers learn to deal with thedifferent levels of power just as they learn to deal with different radii bendson different parts of the track. The voltage from some club batteries go downslowly by half a volt during a 3 min race, and the drivers naturally compensate(by braking a little later and applying a bit more throttle in corners) withoutrealising they were doing it. What drivers cannot compensate for is power goingup and down by the split second depending on how much power the other cars are taking.

Separate wiring to each lane is important. If the wiringis common (see 'wrong!' half of Diagram W), when one lane is drawingpower the voltage to all the lanes will drop by say 1 volt. So thepower to all the lanes will go up by 1 volt when one car brakes, and the poweron all the lanes goes down again when the driver on one lane puts his thumbdown. With separate wiring each lane has the same voltage available regardlessof what the other lanes are doing! (see left hand half of Diagram W)

The maximum power available to the car is limitedby -

(1) how much power is lost in the resistancebetween the car and the battery / power supply.

(2) the power available at the battery / powersupply.

The next article in this series explains whatsort of wire to use, why, and includes some graphs to show what happensall the way round the track. If you just want asimple what to do guide go to the top of this page.

The power for the cars comes from the track powersupply - traditionally this was a car battery with some sort of charger. These days the use of batteries is less common. High currentelectronic 'regulated' power supplies are available at reasonable costand are often used without a battery. For home set type carslow cost unregulated power supplies can be used.

A 12 volt car battery is a good source of highcurrent dc at a fairly constant voltage, and was the standard choice for manyyears (although they are now less common). The battery needs to be recharged otherwise it'll go flat fairlyquickly. The voltage from a battery is at best only fairlyconstant. The combination of clapped out batteries and poorly regulatedchargers, that used to be all to common, produces disappointingly largevariations in voltage. In fact poorly regulated chargers can quicklyconvert a good new battery into a clapped out one!

So what do you need in a battery charger?
(1) A trickle charger will do the battery no harm,and will recharge it eventually. This means only a few amps of chargingcurrent, and unfortunately means that high powered cars will drain the batteryrather much more quickly than the trickle charger can replace it.
(2) A higher current charger that turns itself off very quickly when full chargevoltage is reached. This is how traditional car charging systems work, andin the early days of slot racing car parts were the most common way of doing it.
(3) A constant voltage charger set to the correct float charge voltage for thebattery (13.8v is usually recommended forbatteries with lead/antimony plates, 14.2v is usually recommended for batterieswith lead/silicon plates). An electronically regulated supply is usuallyused - ideally 10 amps per lane (e.g. 40 amps for a 4 lane track) so you candeal with any motor, but many clubs manage with considerably less.

So what do you need in a power supply (withoutbattery)?
You need a power supply that can give each motor the maximum current (amps) itneeds. That means the maximum motor current multiplied by the number oflanes. Here are some examples
(1) For high power cars 20 amps per lane is needed - so a 40 amp supplyshared between two lanes etc. will do nicely.
A 75 amp supply shared between 4 lanes seems to workfine.
(2) For group 12 powered cars 10 amps per lane is needed - so a 40 ampsupply shared between four lanes etc. will do nicely.
(3) For Falcon powered cars 5 amps per lane is more than adequate - so a 20 ampsupply shared between four lanes etc. will do nicely.
(4) For home set type cars 2 amps per lane is more than adequate - so a 4 ampsupply shared between two lanes etc. will do nicely.

Is a higher current power supply aacceptable?
YES Motors only take as much current as they need. For example if alow power motor running at speed needs half an amp then it'll only takehalf an amp even if the power supply is capable of supplying 100amps.
Even for home set use it makes sense to buy a big enough supply to cope with thehighest current motors you are likely to want to run. Cost is a reasonfor not going too far above the current you need.
Higher current power supplies will put more current into a fault, so protectionagainst faults is important.

Does lap length makes a difference to what powersupply is needed? No (except possibly with digital tracks) - BUT extrawiring is usually needed for extra lap length.
Some electronic power supplies can be connected in parallel satisfactorily,some cannot. The best way to avoid this problem is to connectsupplies to lanes individually - so for example if you have two 40 amp suppliesfor your 4 lane track connect two lanes to one power supply and the other twolanes to the other power supply as shown in the diagram below.

NOTE - The blue wire'x' in the diagram is often necessary to get the lap recorders working- the power supply to the cars will work properly if it omitted.

There seem to be plenty of suitablepower supplies about. For example, the BSCRA Nationals track currentlyuses four Rapid Electronics 40 amp switch mode power supplies (part number85-1828) - two lanes from each supply and no batteries. The output voltageis adjustable, they are used on the fixed 13.8 volt setting for championshipracing, but for charity events lower voltages are used.

Adjustable Voltage Powersupplies with an adjustable voltage are often used on slot tracks. Manyclubs simply want a fixed voltage, and never make use of the voltage adjustment.Adjustable voltage provides a useful way of reducing power, for example whenopening a track to the public (see section 7).

Capacitors - some tracks(particularly in North America) use large capacitors connected to the powersupplies. I haven't measured the supply on a track with these fitted soI'll only offer a theoretical observation. The capacitors will maintainthe the track voltage over very short periods (fractions of a second) of highcurrent load, which can help with the peak current when starting from rest. They should also be useful for reducing ac ripple (ac ripple was a problem with simple mains frequency transformer power supplies,but shouldn't be a problem with switch mode power supplies). There is noguarantee all power supplies will start up with capacitors connected.

Homeset power supplies
Many home set tracks come with a low costunregulated power supply. These are suitable for their intended purpose,but can present problems for the enthusiast who wants consistent power to hiscar.
The problem with unregulated power supplies is that the voltage goes up and downas the current changes. Think about what happens when two cars share thesame unregulated power supply. One car taking current reduces the voltagefor the other car. When one car suddenly stops taking current (as it willwhen the brakes are applied, or it falls off) the other car suddenly gets morevolts. At worst this means when one car falls off the other one getsenough extra power that it also falls off ! This can be described as apower surge problem.
A regulated power supply (asdescribed above) is a great solution to these problems. A low cost solutionto this power surge problem that makesuse of these unregulated power supplies is to have a separate onefor each lane. The voltage still goes up and down depending on how muchpower the car is taking but the driver is unlikely to notice. Drivers have no trouble in learning to drive acar on 13 volts in corners and 10 volts under low speed acceleration. Theyare looking at the car not a voltmeter! Consistent voltage differences are justpart of learning the circuit. The diagram below shows the right way toconnect them (separately), also for clarity I've shown the wrong way to connectthem (in parallel).

NOTE - The blue wire'x' in the diagram is often necessary to get the lap recorders working- the power supply to the cars will work properly if it omitted.

Chris Frost

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Perfect Timing?

TrackMate Slot Car Lap Timing

(Infrared Detection)

If you were looking for a comparison of all the lap timing options in our hobby, this is not it. Like anything else in our hobby, personal preference is going to dictate what features you are looking for and how much time and money you are willing to invest in it. This is simply a look at the choice we made for our home track and why.

But I will share with you that over the years I have tested just about every timing option out there. From homemade to after-market there are a lot of options. I can also share that if you truly want a reliable system then you are going to have to invest in it.

What I wanted is what most any enthusiast would want: A system that is easily installed and that I know will work. Like other aspects of this hobby, some investment in time and money is required. I looked at a timing system choice like I look at other parts of my layout. I want quality but I also want value.

And compared to other options Trackmate offers a lot of both.

So if you are looking for a fairly simple approach that gives you a rock solid platform to start racing with, then read on.

Hardware System Criteria:

1. A virtual plug and play system.

Sensor and computer interface cables are fully assembled and ready to be mounted in the track. As with any system there is some installation to do but not much. I also had to build a bridge to house the overhead infrared LED's. The important thing was that the electronic hardware was ready to go.

2. System that could use an overhead infrared interface.

Since braiding our track I did not want to cut the braid to use a dead strip system. I knew infra-red systems were just as reliable as any other detection method and Trackmate fully supports it.

3. Solid customer service.

With well over a decade in this hobby, Trackmate has become one of the standards in our hobby. One of the reasons is good customer service. A couple phone calls and prompt email responses verified that I had made the right choice.

Software System Criteria:

1. Software Simplicity. - Easy setup with minimal system requirements.

We just want a simple program that allows us to race with lane rotation. Also one that does not need a higher end computer. This program accomplishes both.

I do not need a database for all my slot cars or a track design program. We do not utilize pit stops or desire simulated fuel consumption. Some of you do like these options and with the Trackmate hardware you can always download other programs you feel has the features you want. So even if you want more bells and whistles when it comes to software, the Trackmate system is still a good choice.

Our System Configuration

What we purchased:

If you are looking for a Dead strip or Reed switch solution this is the kit you need. Or if you want to do infrared but can't use any of the bridges available in the other kits.

You could get the components and wire/solder it up yourself. I did not want to. Saving me time and effort was worth the extra cost easily.

REMEMBER - This is not a light source. You do not need a light source for the infrared to function using these LED's. The LED's are also INVISIBLE to the naked eye when turned on. So do not think they are broken.

Total cost was $197.00 before shipping. For my budget that is reasonable enough and even when you figure in the computer this entire system was under $250.00.

The computer is actually one of the more budget-friendly parts of it. One of the nice things about this system is that can use old/outdated PC's. This system was taken from the trash bin at a local Salvation Army and I just plugged it in and it booted up. After some clean up of the files it was ready to go. I also looked for other PC's and found many older systems like this are easily had for around $50-$100.00 depending on where you look. I found that places like the Salvation Army I mentioned and old fashioned yard sales the best places. The second PC I have that will be used for our oval was purchased at a yard sale for $40.00. You can also search EBay and even your local Craigslist & find some really great deals as well. So do not think because a timing system needs a PC that the cost will become out of your budget.

Trackmate uses the serial port as an interface. If you have a computer that does not have this port, they have a USB to Serial adaptor that will work as well. These ports are only found on older machines so getting that cheap PC has the added benefit of these ports.

Here is the wiring diagram Trackmate provides. It is very easy to follow. If I can do it, so can you. I mounted mine to a board under our track.

Building Bridges

Having a system like this still requires some work on your part. In our case we needed to build a overhead bridge to mount the pre-wired LED kit.

I used some sheet plastic (styrene) that I had on hand. Don't have any? That's ok. You can useElmer's Foam board found at Wal-Mart or any craft store. I have built an almost identical bridge with it and it lasted for years. If you have a Dollar General they have board identical to it for about a $1.00 a sheet.

I cut a strip about 1 & 1/2 inches wide. I measured the distance from my wall to the outer edge of the track and cut to fit. I marked where I wanted the holes in the track and then marked the strip.

Using a #8 (3/16') drill bit I drilled the holes for the LED's in the strip. I then slid the strip over where I had marked the areas in the track to make sure they lined up as close as possible. I then re-marked the track using the holes in the strip as a guide.

The LED's has a small flange so that when you mount them, they will sit flush and are easily glued in place.

After the LED harness was glued I made simple walls to enclose everything. You can get as creative as you want to here. I am not trying to win any scale awards with our scenery, but still wanted it to look somewhat pleasing.

I measured the pipe so the bridge sits about 5 1/2 inches above the track. That is 1/2 inch over the distance advised for the LED's but it works perfectly. This is tall enough for any model we will race on this particular layout.

I decided to use 1' plastic electrical conduit for one end of the bridge. Could you use smaller? Yes. I used what I had. Here is a tip: go to your local Lowe's or Home Depot and check the scrap bin if they have one. I found a 2 foot section there and it was free. I just bought a coupling for the inside of the bridge for mounting the pipe.

I placed the coupling over the strip and traced around it, and simply cut the hole to allow it to slide up. I sanded a small notch in the coupling for easier wire routing. Hot glue on both sides of the coupling holds it very well. No need to glue the pipe to the coupling, it is tight enough. Could you do it without this coupling? Yes, but I found it made a stronger base for the bridge.

I created a sliding tube system for the other end of the bridge for support. I made it like this so I could use a small bubble level and easily adjust it. Once it was set I just added a drop of Testors model glue on the tubes. The one support at the large end is actually enough to hold it easily. But I did not want any more mounting hardware on that end as it is not easy to get to.

Sensor Installation

IMPORTANT NOTICE!

Please pay attention to the color of the wires. The chart provided by Trackmate (shown at top or article) has the legend of the colors and how they correspond to the lanes.

For example:

Lane #1 Brown

Lane #2 Orange

Lane #3 Green

Lane #4 Blue

This method of installation is NOT required.You can just mount the sensors into a hole directly. But I found using a sleeve for the sensors made it easier for installation. It slides into the hole easy enough, but still tight enough to hold itself in place while you glue it. It is also a good way to increase the durability if you ever have to move them to another track.

Using the same drill bit as for the LED's, carefully drill the holes through. Just try and keep the drill as straight as possible and it will be just fine. There is a little wiggle room when you mount the sensors, so do not worry about it being perfect.

I test fit the tubes before installing the sensor inside.

Slot Car Track Wiring Machine Machine Reviews

Once you have the sleeve mounted, you can go under the track and install it.

I placed a scrap section of plastic over the hole and pushed the sensor assembly up until the top of the sensor touched the plastic. Basically keeping the sensor flush or just slightly recessed from the track surface.

Testing

Time to install your bridge and begin testing. Just align the bridge by sight and it will be fine, no need to try and perfectly match the sensors.

But you say you want to make sure? Ok, try this.

Using a 1/4' tube, slip it over the end of the LED. This will let you know if you are where you need to be.

All set to fire up the system now.

Turn your computer on and make sure your sensor and LED power supplies are hooked up.

Install the software and follow the instructions, very easy. Just click on the link below and read each section that applies to you.

When you auto test your com port you should see a screen like this:

Pretty self-explanatory.

Inside your TRACK tab is where you can make changes to match your track. I set the lane colors to match our track along with the name. There are also options for scale speed and lane length.

Among the actual racing options the PRACTICE mode is where we spend most of our time. This is a fun way to enjoy your models if you are a lone wolf racer as well. This screen has what I really want to know: Lap times and the best lap. It is a lot of fun to try and best yourself and we have spent many hours just challenging each other in this way.

Maybe you want more options? PC Lap Counter is a great program that just about everything you could ask for. It is not free, but it is fair priced and has very solid customer support. I still have it installed and it works perfectly with the Trackmate interface.

Having a good lap timing system adds more to your hobby than you might think. We have made many laps without one for the past couple of years but we did miss it. Now that we have one back the fun factor has been more than doubled. From just solo racing and trying to break that track record, to seeing just how close we are running in a pack. A good timing system adds so much to your home racing and is well worth investing in.

I feel this system is an excellent choice for any home racer or club and was well worth the investment.

-Harry

Ho Slot Car Track Wiring

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Slot Car Track Wiring Machine Machine Instructions

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